Life in Calcutta presents a myriad of options for an urban explorer. While history will be the common thread, the point of view will be different. One could explore based on architecture, transport, historical acts, arts etc. A recent event in the city “Explore Calcutta” chalked out several such exploration routes for the enthusiast. The event was in memory of Jane Jacobs, known internationally as Jane’s Walk. One such route took explorers along the history of theatre in Calcutta. Starting with the Jorasanko Thakurbari and ending at the Shovabazar Rajbari, the walk presented the history of theatre in 19th century Kolkata.
The walk started from Jorasanko Thakurbari, just off Chitpur Road (nearest metro station: Girish Park). The erstwhile residence of Rabindranath Tagore, houses the Rabindra Bharati University and Museum. Theatre here started in 1869 and was mostly a private affair. The “Thakurdalan” has been the stage of many a landmark plays of Bengal Renaissance Era.
The walk started from Jorasanko Thakurbari, just off Chitpur Road (nearest metro station: Girish Park). The erstwhile residence of Rabindranath Tagore, houses the Rabindra Bharati University and Museum. Theatre here started in 1869 and was mostly a private affair. The “Thakurdalan” has been the stage of many a landmark plays of Bengal Renaissance Era.
Moving on northwards from Jorasanko along Chitpur Road across the street from Lohia Matrisadan, an erstwhile mansion of a prosperous Bengali trader, one will find a majestic building with an elegant clock adorning its crown. This is the Ghariwala Mallikbari. Originally owned by Madhusudan Sanyal, this was the site of the first commercial theatre space in 1872. It was also the site of the National theatre which later moved to Shovabazar Rajbari. Moving further north, turning left at Prasanna Kumar Tagore Street, through the cacophony of the street shops emerged a palatial house to the left and a tall building resembling a castle right across the street from it. This is the Pathuriaghata Thakurbari and Tagore Castle. Much like the Jorasanko Thakurbari, plays were staged here. The Bangla Natyalay was founded in 1864 at Tagore Castle, while a Kalidas play was staged in 1859 at the same site. |
From the house of the Pathuriaghata Tagores’ the walk proceeded north along Chitpur Road. An assault of colours waited, as the posters of the “Jatra Para” came into view. Most of the Jatra companies (so called for being travelling theatres in origin, Jatra in Bengali means travel) are located across from the Rabindra Kanan, at the corner of the Chitpur Road and Beadon Street (Dani Ghosh Lane).
(Trivia: If you happen to walk towards the river along Nimtolla Road from here, you would approach the said landing site of Job Charnock when he came to Bengal. You would also come across the Neyamatullah Mosque, which is said to be the oldest mosque in Calcutta.)
Stepping further ahead, a peek into Oriental Seminary (estd 1829) revealed that it was here that Indians/natives staged the first English play in Calcutta. Getting back to Beadon Street, walking eastwards towards C.R. Avenue, an impressive structure with a portico comes up on the right – the Minerva Theatre.
(Trivia: If you happen to walk towards the river along Nimtolla Road from here, you would approach the said landing site of Job Charnock when he came to Bengal. You would also come across the Neyamatullah Mosque, which is said to be the oldest mosque in Calcutta.)
Stepping further ahead, a peek into Oriental Seminary (estd 1829) revealed that it was here that Indians/natives staged the first English play in Calcutta. Getting back to Beadon Street, walking eastwards towards C.R. Avenue, an impressive structure with a portico comes up on the right – the Minerva Theatre.
Back on the street, moving eastwards and across C.R. Avenue the red building on left is the Chhatu Babu Latu Babu’r Bari. The Beadon Street Post Office is to the right. It was the site of the personal playhouse of Chhatu Babu & Latu Babu. It was also the site of the Bengal Theatre in 1813. Another notable aspect of the playhouse was it being the first place where females performed. The female actors were nautch girls (dancing girls) source from nearby Shovabazar.
From the Beadon Street post office, one could take a bus ride to Shovabazar metro station or walk through the bylanes of the neighbourhood to reach the Shovabazar Rajbari. The original Rajbari was the site of the most of its plays. Many of Michael Madhusudan Dutt’s plays were staged here.
From the Beadon Street post office, one could take a bus ride to Shovabazar metro station or walk through the bylanes of the neighbourhood to reach the Shovabazar Rajbari. The original Rajbari was the site of the most of its plays. Many of Michael Madhusudan Dutt’s plays were staged here.
The walk was led by Theatre personality Shuktara Lal and organized by The Telegraph, in association with Calcutta Walks. A simple internet search of the highlighted places would yield a wealth of information for the curious minded. The walk, even though it doesn’t cover the entire history of Theatre in Calcutta, is certainly a good sneak peek. For the uninitiated, this could be the promise of the treasure trove that is the streets of Calcutta. Once again, Calcutta captivates and charms. Till the next walk…